{"id":4101,"date":"2020-01-11T08:14:34","date_gmt":"2020-01-11T07:14:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/waltin.se\/josefinwaltinspinner\/?p=4101"},"modified":"2020-01-11T08:14:39","modified_gmt":"2020-01-11T07:14:39","slug":"fair-isle-yoke","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/waltin.se\/josefinwaltinspinner\/fair-isle-yoke\/","title":{"rendered":"Fair isle yoke"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

This post is not about spinning. It is, however, about the first knitting design I made, a Fair Isle yoke. I started designing and knitting it over two years ago, but for different reasons I have pushed it aside in favour of other projects. During my current stashbusting frenzy I have finally finished it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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My finished Fair Isle yoke. Photo by Dan Waltin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Knitwear design<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The idea of making my own knitwear designs has been in my mind for some years now. It has become more and more real and I have produced a few designs already and published one pattern. My problem has been that while I want to design for handspun yarn I have felt a need to involve commercial yarn for the sake of test knitting and publishing on Ravelry. That’s the way it goes, right? You make the pattern, send it to test knitters with yarn instructions and publish it. I thought I would have to make two items of every design \u2013 one in commercial yarn to fit the knitwear design practice and one in my handspun for my sake. Lately, though, I have realized that I can skip the commercial yarn part and just design for the yarn I spin. I can do this my way. I realize that I won’t sell tons of patterns by designing for handspun. But I need to design, my brain needs it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A fair isle yoke<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This sweater design started in 2017 in this spirit \u2013 a design in a commercial yarn for the sake of the established pattern writing practice. The yarn is 2ply jumper weight from Shetland woolbrokers<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A Fair-Isle yoke knit in 2ply jumper weight from Shetland woolbrokers. Photo by Dan Waltin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When my brain created designs for my handspun yarns the yoke had to stand back. At some point I got back to it, only to realize that I would have to frog all of it. I had knit up to the armholes but too wide and too short. I reknit it with a better fit and put it aside again in favour of another handspun design. This fall I decided to finish it, and I did. After all, I had made the design (and changed it a number of times) and the yoke chart was finished so I just needed to follow my own instructions. But there had been quite a few alterations along the way, so I decided not to aim for a published pattern. I would ease the pressure and just make the sweater for myself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The basics<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This is a fairly basic Fair Isle sweater. A fitted body and a Fair Isle yoke. A k2p2 rib at the bottom, cuffs and neck. The bottom part of the Fair Isle pattern is based on traditional Fair Isle patterns and the top part (the rounder shapes) is more free-styled.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I managed to make a successful short row shaping for the neck. I made it below the yoke part just after the joining of the sleeves. It came out just the way I wanted it to. I did reknit the neck above the Fair Isle pattern once. My first try was a bit too wide and the second try was just right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Fair Isle yoke pattern consists of seven colours \u2013 three dark pattern colours, three light background colours and one pop of colour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are four decrease rounds in the fair Isle pattern. I love how they make the bubble shapes aim towards the neck. That was my plan, to let the bubble shapes form sort of a pearl necklace around my neck. After the reknitting of the neck I added a fifth decrease round above the Fair Isle pattern.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Things I love<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

I love the Fair Isle yoke \u2013 the colours, the pattern and the fit. I made it according to the books I have studied and it was successful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The colours<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

I spent a lot of time choosing the colours.<\/strong> I wanted to do this by the book \u2013 three pattern colours, three background colours and one pop of colour. Easy, but complicated. I was advised to look at the colours in black and white to make sure the lightest dark was still darker than the darkest light. It was a lot of fun!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Seven colours \u2013 three dark pattern colours, three light background colours and one pop of colour. Four decrease rounds in bubble shapes closest to the neck. The white yarn is my handspun. Photo by Dan Waltin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For several years I have had a special place in my heart for teal and turquoise and I still do. I found my three pattern colours that look lovely together. The tangerine pop works perfectly with these.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The background colours are oatmealy (the main colour), natural white and white white. The white white is actually my own handspun yarn. I did buy a white white together with the rest of the skeins, but when I couldn’t find it when I needed it, I picked a handspun instead. It is Shetland wool, though, bought as a fleece from Shetland woolbrokers<\/a>, so it is the same fibers at least.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The pattern<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

This is my first ever try at making a Fair Isle pattern. And after a lot of time charting, re-charting and swatching I came up with something I like and that is simple enough to knit. It is an eight stitch repeat and quite a small pattern.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I love how the colours blend into each other, almost like water colours. You have to look closely to see the subtle changes. It actually looks like a real Fair Isle pattern, fancy that!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fit<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

I am very happy with the fit (from the yoke up, that is). I managed to plan the chart very well to make the yoke sit comfortably on the shoulders without sagging or pushing itself up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Things I love less<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The body is still too wide and a bit too short, at least from the waist down. I have a problem with the waist shaping of my sweaters. I wear a size M except for the hip measurement where I am a size L. This makes the waist shaping a bit dramatic and difficult to get right. Now I know that I need to allow for more ease at the waist to get a more harmonious waist shaping and still fit over the hips. I hadn’t had this epiphany when I designed (and reknit) the body. Perhaps I will reknit the body once more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
A little blousy at the back and still a bit too wide over the hips. I may reknit the body again. Photo by Dan Waltin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The sleeves are a bit too tight. Not for me, but in comparison to the rest of the sweater. And there is an ugly mistake in the body \u2013 I had miscalculated the number of stitches in the body. When I started the Fair Isle yoke I suddenly had four stitches too many and I decreased these during the knitting of the yoke. Not very elegant. This doesn’t really show in the yoke, but the back of the sweater is a bit blousy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All of these parts are parts you don’t see in the photos. I gave Dan strict instructions on what angles he could shoot in, to show mostly the good parts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Close-up
You can see a glimpse of the surplus stitches at the back of the yoke. The join at the back of the Fair Isle pattern is a bit untidy in the picture. Since then I have ripped up the woven-in ends and redone it and it looks much better now. Photo by Dan Waltin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Happy spinning!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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