{"id":4299,"date":"2020-02-22T08:11:40","date_gmt":"2020-02-22T07:11:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/waltin.se\/josefinwaltinspinner\/?p=4299"},"modified":"2020-02-22T08:11:42","modified_gmt":"2020-02-22T07:11:42","slug":"trial-and-error","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/waltin.se\/josefinwaltinspinner\/trial-and-error\/","title":{"rendered":"Trial and error"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Last week I published a video where I spin from the cut end of flick carded staples<\/a>. The reason for this technique was that I wanted to preserve as much as possible of the colours in a multicoloured fleece<\/a>. I envisioned a sweater with all the colour variations showing. Today I write about why I chose to spin the sweater yarn in a completely different technique. Through trial and error I have learned \u2013 once again \u2013 that not every spinning technique goes with every textile technique for every fleece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Error<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When I had finished the first two skein of my first colour I started swatching to see how the yarn behaved. The second I started I realized that this was not the yarn for the sweater I had planned. The yarn was way too dense and felt more like rope in the swatch than a cozy yarn. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A beautiful yarn with lovely colours, but far too dense and coarse for the knitted sweater I had had in mind.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I was quite sad about this for a while. After all, I had got a responsibility to make the fleece justice when I bought it from the shepherdess. I put the rest of the fleece back into the sofa bed and picked up another fleece instead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trial<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

So, how would I spin this yarn to make it suitable for knitting and still keep the colour variations within each colour? I realized that there was way more outercoat than I had originally thought, making the first yarn rougher than I had planned. In the past I have spun other yarns with this method, but with a larger propportion of undercoat \u2013 in a pair of mittens<\/a>, half-mitts <\/a>and sleeves<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With this in mind I played with the idea to remove some of the outercoat. I also realized that I needed to card and spin this yarn woolen to make the yarn as soft as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soft knitting yarn<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

I combed the lovely staples with my medium combs and combing station. After two passes I pulled out two handfulls of outercoat and set aside. Then I pulled out the rest of the wool \u2013 that was now teased \u2013 and carded rolags. I had been afraid that the colour variation would vanish if I changed the preparation method, but the rolags looked lovely with their variegated colour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
I managed to keep the colour variation in the hand-carded rolags.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I spun the yarn with low twist and English longdraw, hoping for a soft yarn. Since I had plans for stranded knitting I made the yarn 2-ply. The result was a soft and warm yarn with a lovely variegated colour. There is still some outercoat in the yarn, keeping it together despite the low twist.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
The new yarn is softer and airier than the original skein.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Comparison<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The original yarn was too dense and rough and the new yarn is a lot softer and airier. I was afraid that the colour variation would be lost in the new yarn, but it turns out it wasn’t. It is a bit lighter, which is because the outercoat is chocolate brown and I removed a lot of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Two
Original yarn to the left and new to the right. The new yarn is considerably softer and airier. The colour variation is less clear but still there.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Strong warp yarn<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The outercoat fibers that I had set aside were long and strong \u2013 somewhere between 15 and 20 centimeters. I made another two passes in the combing station to really comb the different batches together. To spare myself from the strain of pulling all the fibers off the comb with my hand I used a button to diz through. I rarely use a diz when I comb, but since there was quite a lot of fiber on the combs I decided the diz would be a good idea. It would also ensure an even top to spin from.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Close-up
I’m dizzing the fibers through a button hole straight off the combing station.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I made the loveliest bird’s nests out of my dizzed tops. They look just like giant cinnamon buns, don’t you think? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cinnamon bun bird’s nests.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A talented spinner, Kerstin, recently showed me her warp yarn that she had spun on a suspended spindle. With inspiration from Kerstin I decided to spin a warp yarn with a suspended spindle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
Spinning away, outercoat only on a suspended spindle. The second batch of outercoat is a little lighter than the first.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I have brought the spindle to the office during the last couple of weeks and also to the hair dresser’s (who thought I was spinning human hair). Yesterday I finished my first skein of outercoat warp yarn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A spindle-spun outercoat warp yarn is finished!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It is dead strong, I can’t even break the singles! I have finished the first batch and I’m on my second. Hopefully there will be a lovely gradient from the different batches I had sorted the fleece into.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A project for the rejected<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I was a little sad for the first yarn I had spun. I didn’t really know what to do with it. It looked sad and lonely and I wanted to give it a project it would shine in. And I found it. I just started an online course in backstrap weaving with Kimerly Hamill<\/a>. The strong and dense original yarn would be perfect for the first module of the course.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
My very first backstrap weaving project.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The yarn was very clingy and I was well aware of that when I warped. Kimberly warned about yarn that was clingy, but I needed to feel for myself what worked, what didn’t work and what I could live with. The warp threads do cling together a lot and the weaving hasn’t been carefree and flowing in this project. But it does work and I’m very proud of my first backstrap weaving project.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I do apologize for the ugly plastic heddle string. It came with the loom and I didn’t question it at the time. Someone else did, though. Marie, a weaving teacher inspired me to use my handspun yarn for the heddles, so that’s what I will try for my next module.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first backstrap project is now finished and I can’t wait for the second module. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
My very first backstrap woven band is finished! 7,5 cm wide, 100 cm long.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Through trial and error I managed to spin a yarn that would fit my original idea. I also spun a promising warp yarn and found use for my dense yarn in a weaving project. Trial and error helped me find solutions and gave me lots of new inspiration and ideas. And as usual, I learned a lot along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Happy spinning!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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