I have a new piece for you today on Substack: The river spirit. Here is a sneak peek:
I am the gushing flood after hibernation, stretching my limbs across the banks, taking them by force. I am the nursery of tadpoles and fry, I poke pebbles awake with sun rays, and paint a thousand mirrors on spawning trout. I take tea with the clouds on days of grey. I mutter in trickles under icy covers.
The Substack account is something I have started recently and that I use to dive deep into writing for the sake of writing, regardless of the subject. I share whatever I like to share whenever I like and with no expectations from myself other than to share to those who enjoy what I write.
I got an email from a reader the other day. She was concerned that she may have to start a substack account to be able to read and comment. There is no need for that unless you want to. There is no cost, I don’t sell anything, I just share my writing for those who want to read. If you subscribe (with or without having an account) to my substack page you will get an email with the whole text every time I post something and you don’t even have to go to the Substack page. If you want to comment you can do it on the substack page (and create an account) or just as a reply to the email.
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. Do subscribe!
I share essay-style writing on Substack. Come and have a look!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
I have a new piece for you today on Substack: I write the rain. Here is a sneak peek of it:
When I think the front has brushed by, they come โ rain drops the size of marbles, determined to splash to the ground as fast and dramatically as they can, turning the surge into a boiling pot, raging unapologetically before me. Sea gulls flying just above the waves, smooth bellies brushing their sharp edges.
Welcome to my Substack! Don’t worry, I will still blog here too.
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. Do subscribe!
I share essay-style writing on Substack. Come and have a look!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
For many years I have wanted to full my weaves in a fulling mill. Two years ago my wool traveling club decided to weave on the 2023 wool journey with the aim of a 2024 wool journey to a fulling mill.
The day finally came. With one of the members of the club sick in the last minute we ended up with four wool travelers and around 30 meters of woven fabric between us. Boel with one 9 meter weave and the rest of us with shorter lengths. I brought three shorter weaves with my handspun and three with commercial yarns that I bought years ago on a clearance. You can read about my fulling candidates here.
The fulling mill in Dala-Floda looks like an oil painting.
17th century industrial site
The mill is situated just outside Dala-Floda in county Dalarna in Sweden, an area with a rich textile heritage. There have been buildings marked on old maps since at least the 17th century here. In the mid-19th century the fulling mill was installed in what had been a flour mill until then. The fulling mill was in process in the spring and the fall when there is enough water in the creek to drive the mill, until 1941. Nowadays Anna-Karin opens it for courses and demonstrations.
The miniature fulling mill was made in 1998.
We were welcomed by Anna-Karin Jobs Arnberg, who manages the mill, just as her forefathers did a couple of centuries ago. On the top floor is a miniature of the mill, that Anna-Karin uses to show the function and demonstrate the enormous powers that are involved in the fulling process. It’s amazing what can be achieved with just water, wood and wool.
Vadmalsstamp
The Swedish word for a fulling mill is vadmalsstamp. Vadmal is a heavily fulled fabric, and stamp means something that stomps. Before and parallel with the mill, vadmal was also stomped by foot in a tub for up to a week to get the final fabric.
The water wheel, the beautiful old wood and the back of the stomping beams.
Wet fabric is placed in a trough underneath two massive stomping beams. The troughs are slanted backwards, so that the fabrics are slowly rotated by the stomping beams, as if browsing through a book, wool page by wool page. Anna-Karin talked passionately about letting the mill do its work, and about listening to the sound and the song of the beams. Too little fabric and the stomping beams go wood on wood onto the bottom of the trough. Around 20 meters is perfect, with the total capacity of around 60 meters in the three troughs. Everywhere we went as Anna-Karin showed us the site, she listened to the mill to make sure everything was running smoothly.
Kristin listens to the wood.
Complete fulling takes ten hours, half fulling five and three quarters somewhere in between.
Letโs stomp!
To prepare the fabrics for fulling we soaked them overnight so that they would be evenly dampened. After Anna-Karin had showed us how to operate the mill we folded each fabric into an accordion so that they all would be easy to browse through in the troughs.
The fabrics are folded into accordions before we place them in the troughs. Two people work together to start the stomping and the beams begin to browse through the fabrics. We take them out to check the stomping every two hours or so.
To start the stomping, one person pulls out the stopping plugs and another lifts the stomping beams. The sound was just right and we could hang out in the sun with various crafting projects for the next hour.
We wait and we fold.
Every hour we check and perhaps add some water. Every second hour we stop the stomping, lift the fabrics out of the troughs and check the fulling process. The first ones were finished after five hours and the rest after another hour.
Rinsing and stretching
When we decided the fabrics were fulled enough we stopped the stomping for the last time and rinsed the fabrics in the creek. Holding the fabrics in the running stream was quite an experience.
Rinsing and stretching.
The last thing we did before we were done was to stretch the fabrics under pressure on a round roll with a crank in one end. The stretching also squeezed out a lot of water. To avoid biasing the fabrics we rolled them the other way on rolls we had brought from home. I used a suage pipe (new and unused) and the others yoga mats.
We had all been looking forward to this so much and we had the most fantastic day. I was quite intriguing to just place the fabrics in the hands of the process and see what came out of it. I think we all agree that we will do this again.
The results
Fulled soon-to-be pillow cases woven in commercial Shetland yarn.
I was fully aware of the fact that a lot could go wrong with my weaves. The commercial yarns were old and brittle and could potentially break. The twill was an experiment that could turn out in a variety of ways. I had high hopes for the dark grey Gute weave, since I had fulled a swatch years ago. I was quite wrong about most of the weaves, though.
The weaves in commercial yarns fulled evenly and beautifully โ 11 % and 19 % on width and length respectively. They will be perfect for the pillow cases I had planned for them. The Gute/Icelandic weave also fulled beautifully (5% and 22 %). It hasnโt told me what it wants to become yet. The Icelandic twill did shrink (13 % and 7 %), but in sort of a pleated way. Iโm not sure what to make of it. Finally, the dark grey Gute did shrink too (11 % and 12 %), but is still very much unfulled. This puzzled me and I have no idea why it wouldnโt full when the swatch did. I will try and full it manually with warm water, soap and my waulking board.
Coming up: A video
I have my phone full of video footage, over 50 clips that I will eventually edit and publish on my YouTube channel. I canโt wait to show you this magical place!
Happy spinning!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. Do subscribe!
I share essay-style writing on Substack. Come and have a look!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
Today I’m at the fulling mill, but I still have a poem for you over on Substack. I call it The fern inkwell. Welcome!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. Do subscribe!
I share essay-style writing on Substack. Come and have a look!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
I have no blog post here today. Instead I have a whole essay on my newly started Substack account. On Substack I will share my writing first and foremost. Sometimes about spinning, sometimes in other topics, but all for the sake of letting my words flow in the direction they take me. I will still write here on the blog, but sometimes my writing mind needs to take me to another special place, and land on my Substack page.
New weekend I will be at the fulling mill with my fulling candidates and I can’t promise you a post.
Happy reading!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. Do subscribe!
I share essay-style writing on Substack. Come and have a look!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
Nathalie is the name of the seed variety I use for this yearโs experimental flax patch. Today is the day I sow them and think about what I learn from them.
Sweet little flax seeds, shaped like almonds, glistening in the sun. The beds in our community garden allotment are ready, soil nutritious, loose and bursting with life. Today is the day I introduce the seeds to the patch, when the maples are in blossom, birches crispy green.
A sweet harvest of flax seeds.
Karolina or Esbjรถrn?
Tradition says to plant the flax on a day with a female name, the longer the better. Karolinaโs day on May 20th is said to be a good candidate, but I am quite confident with my choice. Apparently I chose the day of Esbjรถrn and Styrbjรถrn. I am sure they donโt mind. If I were Esbjรถrn or Styrbjรถrn I would be honoured to be the guardian of newly sown flax babies. And the seeds have their own Female name, donโt they; Nathalie, half from last yearโs allotment harvest, half from the local flax husbandry society.
Flax seed threshing.
I don’t have my hair down, I don’t sow with a silver spoon and I do wear underwear, contrary to the folklore, but I am a daredevil. I mix the seeds and divide them into the two beds I have prepared. Sprinkle them gently on top of the sun-warmed soil. My heart smiles at a whiff of sheep that sweeps by from the squash bed I have topped with fleece skirtings from shearing day last month.
All that can go wrong
Being an adoptive mother to a flax patch can be quite adventurous โ I never know what to expect. Weather, soil, harvest day, drying and retting are all steps on the way from seed to yarn that can go wrong in a number of ways, and a lot of them by my hand. This is the 11th year I grow flax, and every year I learn something new that can influence the result. Still, every time I do end up with spinnable fiber and seeds for the next year, so I must be doing something right enough.
My flax patch yarn from 2011 to 2022.
All is as it should be
This little patch of land, just a couple of square meters, teaches me so much. I learn what to look for in the soil, to spot the miniscule difference between sprouts of flax and chickweed, to harvest the thicker edge plants separately and to use a rolling pin and a pillow case to break the dried seed capsules.
Come June…
All that can go wrong will eventually do so, and I embrace all that I learn from it. This is my experimental flax patch for a reason, I keep it to learn, to get a tiny glimpse into the vastness of what there is to learn about flax husbandry. With gratitude and humility I think about all the people who have grown flax before me with so much more at stake than just my flax growing pride.
Flax 2024: Weave
Last year was the first year I dared to spin my homegrown flax. During a couple of weeks I spun up all my stricks, year by year. This is the year I will weave with my own linen yarn. I may also dye it with indigo that I have grown in that same soil. Imagine, a linen towel with the experience from seed to yarn from the past 11 years woven into it, and blue. If that is not priceless, I don’t know what is.
Nathalie, grow well. I will do my best to nurture you and make you shine.
Happy spinning!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. So subscribe!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
In just a few weeks my wool traveling club and I will go on our 2024 wool journey to a fulling mill. We have all woven fabrics to full and today Iโm presenting my fulling candidates.
I love planning our wool journeys. We have planned this one for over two years. On the 2022 wool journey we learned pรฅsรถm embroidery by Anna-Karin Jobs Arnberg in beautiful Dala-Floda. She also teaches fulling at the nearby fulling mill (one of perhaps five working fulling mills in Sweden), and we decided to spend the upcoming year and the 2023 wool journey weaving projects to full in the 2024 wool journey.
What to full
The fabric to full needs to be woven in a wool that actually will felt. The Scandinavian breeds usually felt very well. The wool needs to be evenly blended, spun and woven, and the sett needs to be loose. It is a good idea to add extra twist to the warp yarn to hold, and let the weft yarn be looser spun to enhance the fulling process.
Fulling mill
The Dala-Floda fulling mill is situated in Kvarna, a 17th century industrial site with several different types of mills. It is operated on courses and workshops, and by people who have the knowledge to use it.
The Dala-Floda fulling mill, photo by Dan Waltin in 2018.
Fulling candidates
I have woven five fabrics during the past four years, two of which are woven with my handspun yarns. If Iโm lucky, a sixth weave (handspun) will be finished in time. All the weaves are different and I hope at least one of them will turn into something I can use. I have woven them all on my 60 cm wide rigid heddle loom.
Rough Gute
When I first learned about fulling fabrics and saw a weekend course in fulling at a fulling mill I started to plan for a weave to full. I had bought a lovely rough gute fleece back in 2018 and made a few woven swatches. It turned out that they fulled beautifully and very evenly. I had just spun a woolen 2-ply yarn that I used as both warp and weft and it was quite a fast weave. The finished weave has been waiting in my yarn closet for the past four years.
Plain Gute wool in warp and weft. Hand-carded woolen spun and 2-plied.
I think this weave might be the most straightforward of the weaves. It has the same fleece and the same yarn in both weft and warp. Iโm sure I can make something out of it, perhaps a vest.
Raw weave size: 56 x 275 centimeters.
3 x 3 x 3 pillow cases
Pillow cases are one of my favourite test projects for weaving. They are small enough to finish, large enough to actually become something, and quite swift to sew. Usually I weave with my handspun yarn, but in this case (pun intended) I had lots of skeins of Shetland wool from a clearance sale a few years ago, and I thought I might as well weave something out of them. I used the same three colours in three different checquered patterns in three different weaves.
I wove the first commercial yarn pillow case at the 2023 wool journey at Boelโs house.
The yarns are quite old and brittle, and there is a risk that they will tear in the fulling process. There is also a risk that the colours will full differently, one of the yarns turned out to be finer than the others. If the fulling shrinks the fabrics too much, I can either get smaller pillows or weave bands (from a failed first warping) to join in the sides.
Three weaves in three colours and three patterns.
Raw weave size
Teal main colour: 54 x 128 centimeters
Fawn main colour: 55 x 128 centimeters
Navy main colour: 54 x 132 centimeters.
Icelandic twill
Mmmโฆ my beauty. I think this is the weave Iโm the most excited about. Last year I bought two Icelandic fleeces from Uppspuni mini mill in Iceland, one light and one dark. I separated tog and thel (outercoat and undercoat in Icelandic fleece) and colours. To enhance the characteristics of the fiber types I spun the tog worsted and the thel woolen, both as singles yarns and in different directions. To ease the energy of the warp singles I wound them up on tennis balls a couple of months before I warped. I set my rigid heddle loom up for twill and wove 2.25 meters. This may be my best twill project so far, itโs also my best singles warp project so far.
Worsted spun Icelandic singles tog as warp, woolen Spun Icelandic singles thel as weft. A few months before I warped, I wound the warp yarn onto tennis balls to ease the singles energy a bit.
I expect the weft to full more than the warp, so that the finished fabric will be a lot narrower and just a little bit shorter. The twill construction might also add to the sideways shrinkage. The fabric will have two different sides โ the weft facing side will be soft and warm and the warp facing side will be strong and shiny. I have no specific plans for this fabric, the result will point me in the right direction.
Raw weave size: 54 x 209 centimeters.
Gute/Icelandic/sari silk
I finished the twill just a week ago, took a breath and warped for the final project. The warp yarn is a 2-ply woolen spun Gute lambโs wool with recycled sari silk in it, and the warp is woolen spun Icelandic thel, also with recycled sari silk. I have no idea what will happen here, with one plied yarn and one singles, and with two different breeds. I expect the silk to full a little, but still leave some eye-catching colour specks in the fabric.
2-ply woolen spun Gute lambโs wool with recycled sari silk as warp, singles woolen spun Icelandic wool with recycled sari silk as weft.
The warping went so well, the warp behaved and I managed to roll it onto the warp beam very evenly. Once I had threaded the heddle I realized I had warped backwards, though. I tied the ends on the warp beam, rolled the whole warp out again, fiddled, cut the cloth beam ends and tied them to the apron rod. I was very grateful that this wasnโt a singles warp. As I wove I looked at the thousand sari silk stars that lit underneath my hands and felt the warmth of the lanolin. I also noticed large quantities of Gute yarn kemp all over my top.
If I finish this weave in time I hope to be able to full it just slightly. I swatched a similar weave a few years ago and found that a lightly fulled fabric was just perfect, with both the fulling qualities and some drape.
Things I canโt control
There are endless factors that can go wrong here and that I canโt control. And thatโs the beauty of fulling. I have no idea how much the fabrics will shrink. I have no idea if I can ask to stop the fulling for one of the fabrics or if they all need to go the same length of time. Perhaps my dyed commercial yarns will be banned if there is a risk of bleeding. Perhaps my gute fabrics will be banned because their kemp fibers may contaminate the other fabrics. One or more of the fabrics may have been woven in too loose a sett. I will find all this out sooner or later.
The fabrics will probably shrink in different amounts, and I am also quite certain that something will go wrong. I am convinced that I will learn a lot and that I will take another weekend further down the line to full some more.
I am so excited about the fulling mill wool journey and my weaves. My wool traveling club friends have woven a lot too, Iโm particularly excited about Boelโs 5 meter twill woven on a grown up floor loom.
Happy spinning!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. So subscribe!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
Last summer I spun a lot of singles silk yarn on a supported spindle. I used the small skeins as dye samples in my experimental dyeing with fresh Japanese indigo and woad. I started a striped weave in January and this week I finished my silk shawl.
If you are a patron (or want to become one) you can see more from my writing retreat in my January 2024 video postcard.
I must have been in the weaving room every weekend since I warped this weave, and it has just taken forever. I am used to weaving with wool, which is flexible, forgiving and reasonably predictable. Silk however, is not.
Spin, dye and weave. And then weave some more.
It pains me to say it, but this was just not a fun weave. I loved spinning the yarn and dyeing the skeins and I love the resulting shawl. But the weaving, not so much.
A tabby shawl with a loose sett, woven from spindle spun silk singles dyed with my homegrown fresh indigo.
Slow and fiddly
In a previous post about weaving this silk shawl I embraced the slowness of the process, but now I take it all back. Compared to wool, weaving with silk is inelastic, slippery and unforgiving. So many threads broke, and joining them once I had passed the break was fiddly and the slippery and fine ends slithered their way out or broke over and over.
Insufficiently spun joins lead to broken warp threads. The muga silk fibers are shorter and the warp threads fuzzier. Still, I love the irregularities the woven joins make in the fabric.
The golden muga silk threads I used to separate the blue stripes had shorter fibers and broke more often than the mulberry silk threads, and got quite fuzzy. I do have a history of making insufficient joins as I spin, and it was very obvious here too. How hard can it be to spin proper joins? I donโt mind the joins in the weave, they do add to the character of the fabric, but I could live without the sweat of watching them get gradually thinner and breaking.
Tight sheds
This weave has a sett of 80 picks per 10 centimeters, but the smallest heddle on my loom is 60/10. So to obtain the smaller sett, I used two 40/10 heddles. I have used a double heddle several times before, for double layered weaving and for twill. I know from these experiences that the sheds are tighter compared to a single heddle, and it was true here too. Due to the inelasticity of the silk warp, the opening of the shed was fiddly and took a lot of time. To make it a little easier, I opened up the shed with a weaving sword before I inserted the shuttle.
Deadline
Usually I donโt have a problem with projects that take time. Only, I have an appointment with a fulling mill in late May and two wool weaves waiting to be woven and fulled at the mill, so I needed to get the silk shawl off the loom and warp one of the wool weaves. I managed to weave around 5 centimeters every visit to the weaving room and after thinking โthis will be the last sessionโ for five sessions, I was close to giving up. And I did, actually โ when the umpteenth warp thread broke and I had only 30 centimeters left I abandoned my stubbornness and went for the scissors.
Loose sett
When I planned the weave I had a vision of quite a loose sett โ I wanted the shawl to be light and sheer and the irregularities of the yarn to add to the character if the weave.
The sett in the silk shawl is loose to emphasize the sheerness and lightness of it.
Due to the inflexibility of the yarn, the threads didnโt fill out the empty spaces when I cut it off the loom. I actually managed to create the shawl according to my vision, and I really like the result.
The fringe twister
When I had finally finished the weave I asked myself what kind of fringe I wanted. I was learning towards just tyeing the loose warp, but then I realized the warp was single, and that loose threads would probably warp and tangle. So I decided on a twisted fringe. I do own a fringe twister that I donโt use very often, but when I need it I thank the fringe twisting goddesses for its convenience. Twisting 90 long fringes is not my idea of a good time, only strained fingers.
The fringe twister is my friend.
Plant, spin, dye, weave
And so I made it. I spent last summer spinning fine singles of mulberry silk and dyeing it in small batches with my home-grown fresh indigo and woad leaves, and I spent the winter weaving a silk shawl for this summer. In December I harvested my own Japanese Indigo seeds and my sweet indigo plants for this season are thriving in the kitchen window.
A finished silk shawl, 40 x 210 centimeter (including 20 + 20 centimeter fringe).
The circle is full, and so is the year and I can’t wait to wear my breezy silk shawl.
Happy spinning!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. So subscribe!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
I spend a weekend at Lenaโs place, helping her shear her Dalapรคls sheep while Dan skips around taking photos for my upcoming book Listen to the wool. I shear Parisa, Orkidรฉ and Frida and learn from the wool producers themselves.
Dan and I drive an hour or so south to Lena, an experienced spinner, and her ten Dalapรคls ewes. Usually she shears them a lot earlier, perhaps in early March, a few weeks before lambing. This year, though, the sheep are not in gestation, for the first time since she got them 18 years ago. Therefore there is no rush in getting them shorn.
Shearing prep
Since Lena got the sheep she has most of the time shorn them herself twice a year with hand shears. She has never owned a shearing table. Instead, she has simply placed the sheep in her lap and started shearing where she could and in no particular order. This time, though, she has borrowed two home-made shearing tables and is super excited. We place them facing each other in the middle of the narrow shearing pen. They have a remarkable resemblance to sheep.
The shearing tables that look like sheep. Weโre all set for bringing out the flock.
We bring out the newly sharpened shears, boxes for spinning wool and garden wool respectively, pens to mark the boxes with the sheepโs names, all sorts of bribes, and fence in the narrow shearing pen. All the while Dan sharpens his lenses, ready to portray the flock.
A to Q
When Lena got the sheep she gave them names beginning with the letter A, and every year the names of the lambs begin with the next letter of the alphabet. Usually visiting children get to name them. Her oldest sheep now is Ester and the youngest Quinoa. Before Lena lets the sheep out from the shed I peak inside and meet Quinoaโs curious-cautious eyes.
Quinoa peaks out from the sheep shed before we let them out to the shearing pen.
Lena herds the flock from the shed, through the larger pen and into the narrow pen. After a few minutes of sizzling and bleating, the sheep quieten and all we can hear is soft chewing. Lena shears Esterโs fine fleece while I work on the considerably younger Parisa, only 2 years old. The names come from two of Lena’s grandchildren. Since the sheep have had access to silage in a trough indoors during the winter, there is a lot of hay in their locks and we start by brushing the fleeces to remove some of it. The rhythmic motions seem to have a calming effect on the girls.
I shear
I have tried shearing twice before. The first time on a course in small-scale sheep farming back in 2014 (where it took three people three hours to shear one sheep). The second time was with Lena five years later, with her signature lap technique. I started, but after a while the sheep slithered away from my inexperienced grip. Lena caught her and had no trouble shearing two sheep in her lap.
Now, another five years later I am not sure whether I am any help to Lena or actually a burden. But even if my shearing skills need some sharpening, I know I can assist her where she needs an extra pair of hands.
After a while I find a technique that works for me. In the upper right corner you can see how the fleece is denser toward the spine. Photo by Dan Waltin.
Parisa ruminates calmly as I place the shears with a trembling hand across her back. The rest of the sheep huddle together and mind their own business. Quinoa gently nibbles at the pull tab on my my leg pocket zipper.
The beginning is tricky; I need to find a spot along the spine where I can insert the tips of the shears in the dense fleece and open sort of a path from back to front. Once I have that itโs easier to follow and broaden. I fiddle, but after a while I find a method that works. Parisa is warm and and calm under my hands, and helps me find my confidence and work on my skills to make both her and the shorn fleece pretty. The lanolin glistens in the spring sun and my skin enjoys the moisturizing.
In the living room
Here I am, belly to belly with the sheep who has produced this magnificent wool as a shield against the elements, and it is my duty and privilege to free her of it. I wonโt get any closer to the wool than this. I am in Parisaโs living room, exploring her habits through what I find โ what seeds and plants are common in her pasture, whatโs on the menu in her silage and what side she likes to sleep on. Itโs all there.
Typical staples from Frida (left) and Parisa (right).
Whatโs more, I get to experience the wool right on her back. I learn how the wool behaves and what wool quality grows where on her body, while she is breathing and chewing right underneath my hands. I go through every fiber with the shears, transforming them from her shield to a product for me. In return for this invaluable gift I have the responsibility to translate it into a shield for me, into the best yarn I can possibly make from the superpowers of this magnificent wool.
I soak in everything I learn from Parisaโs wool as I shear. Photo by Dan Waltin
As I slowly shear my way through the layers of wool I find and remove larger pieces of vegetation matter, poo and my own second cuts. The wool I place in the bag is wonderfully clean and airy, the wool I remove will serve as fertilizer and soil improvement for my garden beds. For every inch I shear I learn something new. I welcome and cherish what Parisa has to teach me through her wool, right there in her living room.
Follow the curves
I do quite well over the back and down across the sides in sort of a saddle shape. But all of a sudden, the belly curves and I find myself shearing further and further from the skin. The thick fleece does nothing to help me understand the shape of the body and I need to change the angle and rethink my path for every layer I shear. Even further down the belly the skin is looser and the risk of breaking it is higher.
A newly shorn Parisa.
Shearing truly takes concentration. Concave shapes around the leg insertions make me sweat and I shear smaller and smaller amounts with longer and longer pauses to breathe and assess where to go next. Parisa is approaching the height of her fleece denseness age (which I have leaned is around 3โ4 years of age), but it turns out that her fleece gets even more challenging to penetrate; towards the belly the wool suddenly becomes considerably thicker and greasier, and I find it hard to even find a spot to insert the shears. Lena comes to my rescue and does the most difficult parts โ belly, crotch, udders and neck.
As we finally open the neck holder and Parisa skips down on the ground, her flock sisters curiously sniff the assumed newcomer and start butting her. She is soon followed by Ester and the butting ceases slightly.
Spring and autumn shearing
We have a nourishing soup lunch in the afternoon sun and get back to work with another couple of sheep โ Lena shears Nehne (whose autumn fleece I bought a couple of years ago to finish my two-end knitted jacket sleeves) and I Orkidรฉ (Swedish for orchid). Her wool is even longer and a little more tricky to shear than Parisa’s, but I have a better technique now and my confidence is heightened.
Usually spring shorn wool has a lower quality than the autumn shorn wool. This has to do with the cold that results in more lanolin, indoor feeding, which can end up in the fleece, and gestation, where the fetuses can take lots of the nutrients. Since these ladies arenโt in gestation this year, the wool has an even quality over the length of the staples, be it a little greasier and with a little more vegetation matter. Lena reminds herself to buy silage without timothy next winter; we find lots of the miniature cigarrs that, tangled in a fleece, are ticking seed bombs.
Bad time for shearing
Both Parisa and Orkidรฉ have patches of extremely dense wool, especially under the belly and along the spine, that Lena has never experienced before with her sheep. She asks around in social media and understands that April and May are the worst months for shearing sheep โ this is peak lanolin time, while June is a month where the greasiest outgrowth has grown past the skin and left less greasy outgrowth underneath, according to some of the replies. Rumour has it that shearing in June works like butter.
I work faster and more efficient as I shear Orkidรฉ. Still, she has denser fleece and I need Lenaโs help towards the belly, crotch and neck.
I give up on Orkidรฉ way sooner than I did with Parisa โ the lower side and belly wool is impossible to penetrate and I ask Lena to take over. She is of course way more experienced than I, and I assume the sheep feel safer with her fiddling with scissors at their crotches than a complete stranger and hopeless beginner. This doesnโt mean I canโt help, though โ while Lena gives Orkidรฉ a well needed pedicure I drape myself softly over the freshly shorn back like a weighted blanket. She calms down and I can feel her belly rumble against mine.
When Orkidรฉ finally skips down from the table, shorn and trimmed, tiredness hits me in the head with a hammer. I realize I have focused deeply snip by snip for 2 x 2 hours.
Predators
Dalapรคls sheep have traditionally grazed in the forest. For this reason they have a strong sense of the flock and are watchful for predators. We are in fact in wolf territory, and since a couple of years Lena brings her flock indoors every night. Her chicken coop next to the sheep pen is empty โ all the chickens were taken a couple of years ago by what Lena believes to have been a ferret.
The flock instinct becomes very clear on the second day when we let them out from their shed. The aim is to drive them through the larger pen into the narrower shearing pen. The flock rushes out into the larger pen, but refuses to go into the shearing pen. They circle like a school of fish, constantly huddling fleece to fleece. Lena places me (the assumed preadator) in one corner of the larger pen while she herds them towards the other end and the entrance to the shearing pen.
Mud, grease and manure
After about ten minutes she succeeds and we can close the gate and scooch the next sheep onto the table. We choose Frida, who is old and has quite fine fleece that is considerably easier to shear than the fleeces of the two younger ewes I worked with the day before. We work together from the start this time โ Lena with the hardcore spots and I on the breezy back and sides.
Lenaโs skilled hands work swiftly across Fridaโs body.
Iโm tired today, my brain has worked overtime and processed all through the night. The rain makes my lanoliny hands slippery, the photos I take are all blurry through greasy lenses. But Fridaโs fine fleece is so much easier to get through, though, and Lena and I have found a way to work together with a mutual understanding of what needs to be done and where. Frida is old and has more concave parts and loose skin. I need to find ways through the hollows and take extra care not to cut through her skin. As Lena does the hoof service with her rose snips, I once again drape myself over the warm sheep back. Lena decides to hold the shearing for the remaining five sheep a few weeks to see if it works better in June.
When Dan and I go back home we have two bags of manure in the trunk, beside a bag of poopy wool and two bags of spinning wool. Not many people would know what a treasure that is. A wave of gratitude rushes through me, for all I have learned from both two- and four-legged friends.
Tack, Lena!
Happy spinning!
You can find me in several social media:
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. So subscribe!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.
Back in October I helped my friend Claudia with the fleeces in the autumn shearing. I brought the fleeces from the Gestrike sheep Doris and Hรคrvor home, and I bet they hadnโt taken the bus before!
Just a few days earlier I had cuddled these two wooly ladies at a pasture photo shoot for my book. Getting to create yarn with fleeces whose sheep I have met and shared breaths with made me realize what a special opportunity that was, and it gave me an extra tingle in my heart.
Doris and Hรคrvor take the bus to the city.
You can read more about the two visits to Claudia’s farm in the essay style post A breath of wool.
A secret mission
A few weeks ago I talked with A, a wooly artist who will remain secret for a while longer. She is working on a secret project and I suggested a collaboration: that I would send her handspun yarns from the fleeces of Doris and Hรคrvor and she would incorporate them in her project. She loved the idea and we started to plan our different ends of the process. A and I don’t know each other and have never met, it is just one of those sweet Instagram connections that make my heart sing once again.
Typical and not
Neither of the fleeces is typical of Gestrike wool. The most common staple type in a Gestrike fleece would be a dual coat with long and strong outercoat fibers and soft and airy undercoat fibers. But it could just as easily be another dominant staple type. At the same time, Gestrike wool can be very variegated. The white locks from Dorisโ fleece are very fine and crimpy and with a soft sheen, almost like a finull fleece.
Newly shorn fleece from Doris (left) and Hรคrvor (right) the Gestrike sheep.
Hรคrvorโs locks are more mixed, with both straight and crimpy staples, long and shorter, white and grey. A little rougher than Doris’ fleece, but still soft. Since the wool of Gestrike sheep tends to lighten as the sheep grows, chances are that Hรคrvor was born a lot darker, perhaps with white spots.
The yarns
A gave med creative freedom with the yarns. I decided on two fingering-ish weight 2-ply knitting yarns. I wanted to create them so that A would be able to use them for the same project, should she want to, perhaps in a stranded colourwork. With that as my starting point I aimed for two yarns that had the same qualities, even if they came from fleeces that did not.
Doris (left) and Hรคrvor (right): Staple, teased wool, carded rolag and finished 2-ply yarns.
I had already picked the locks right after the fleeces had dried after washing, so my hands had already made their acquaintance with the wool. In the next step I teased for each fleece around 50 grams of wool with my combing station. I wanted lots of loft in the yarns and decided on woolen spinning in one of my favourite techniques: English longdraw. So I carded my teased wool into the sweetest rolags and took my seat at the wheel.
Treadles and twist
English longdraw means that you gather twist in front of the rolag, make around an arm’s length draw to let the twist travel up the drawn section, and then add the final twist before you allow the spun yarn to roll up on the bobbin. As I do this I like to keep a consistent treadle count โ in this case I treadle six to gather twist, make the draw, treadle ten to add twist, and then roll the yarn onto the bobbin. This gives the technique a beautiful rhythm, and also a consistency. Together with a similar counting in the carding, a yarn spun this way has the potential to become very consistent.
Doris and Hรคrvor as finished yarns.
I used the same rhythm for both yarns and they turned out quite similar to each other and landed on a grist of 1700 and 1790 meters per kilo. The Doris skein may have a little more elasticity since her wool has more crimp than Hรคrvor’s. I have cuddled these skeins numerous times, or just admired them. Today I sent them to A, so I will have to just cherish the memory of them. And, of course, I have the rest of the bags of fleece left, and I may spin them the same way as these first two skeins.
A new journey
So, Doris and Hรคrvor are going on a new journey. This time in the shape of yarns and probably in a truck, but still, a journey to a new town and to a new home. I wonder how A will give them a new shape. I hope they all get along and that A can make Doris and Hรคrvor shine! I’ll let you know when the secret isn’t a secret anymore.
Resources
Do you want to dive deeper? Here are some resources.
This blog is my main channel. This is where I write weekly posts, mainly about spinning. So subscribe!
Myyoutube channel is where I release a lot of my videos. Subscribe to be sure not to miss anything!
I have a facebook pagewhere I link to all my blog posts, you are welcome to follow me there.
I run an online spinning school, welcome to join a course! You can also check out my course page for courses in Sweden or to book me for a lecture.
On Patreon you can get early access to new videos and other Patreon only benefits. The contributions from my patrons are an important way to cover the costs, time and energy I put into the videos and blog posts I create. You can read more about my Patreon page here.
Follow me on Instagram. I announce new blog posts, share images from behind the scenes and post lots of woolliness.
Read the book Knit (spin) Sweden!by Sara Wolf. I am a co-author and write in the fleece section about how I spin yarn from Swedish sheep breeds.
I am writing a book! In the later half of 2025 Listen to the wool: A why-to guide for mindful spinning will be available. Read more about the book here.
In all the social media I offer, you are more than welcome to contact me. Interacting with you helps me make better content. My private Facebook page, however, will remain private.
I support Centro de textiles tradicionales del Cusco, a group of talented textile artists in Cusco, Peru who dedicate their work to the empowerment of weavers through the revitalization and sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral textiles in the Cusco region. Please consider supporting their work by donating to their causes.