On last year’s Swedish fleece championships I managed to get one of the gold medalist fleeces, from the Gestrike sheep Hanna. She grazes in Claudia’s pastures and I was there at shearing day.
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The fleece is shiny and soft and quite variegated. When I picked the fleece I surveilled the staples and divided them into piles of staple length, which quite often also means fineness. I ended up with three piles – 200 grams of fine fibers, 660 grams of medium fibers and 300 grams of stronger fibers.

A variegated fleece
My plan is to spin the same type of yarn from all three categories – a 2-ply woolen yarn spun from hand carded rolags with English long draw. That way I will have one soft yarn, one medium and one stronger and use all three of them in the same project. I could use the fine yarn at the neck of a sweater where I may be sensitive to itch, the medium for the body and the stronger for elbows and cuffs, that may stand against abrasion better than the medium yarn.

Last week I finished the last skein of the medium staples. When all the medium staple wool was spun I had 530 grams and 830 meters. I managed to get the yarn very even in grist across the 13 skeins – ten of them had a grist between 1400 and 1600 meters per kilo and the remaining three not far from that. I am very happy with the result so far.

The tricky part comes next; to spin the other staple categories into similar yarn weight, look and feel. I have not started the fine and the strong categories, but I did do a quick sample collection of the three varieties. I thought I would have to alter the amount of treadles for gathering and adding twist, but all the variants worked with the treadle combination I had used for the medium staples.
Squishy centerpull balls
And oh, I tried a new technique to hand wind my centerpull balls. Usually I wind them around my thumb (like you would with a nostepinne, only without the nostepinne), but a student of mine taught me to make squishy ones, and that requires a nostepinne. When you wind the yarn, you make sure to add a finger or three around the ball, so they are wound into the ball, After a few rounds in the same spot, you slide the fingers out, turn the ball and take a new grip. That way the yarn is loosely wound onto the ball, which makes it airy and less pulling on the yarn.


The balls are fun to make and I love how smoothly the yarn comes out of the center. They are also pretty, don’t you think?
When projects come running
My plan was to spin all the categories before I started a project, but I willingly admit I utterly failed. My mind needed to knit, and so I cast on for a sweater. I am pretty sure I will have yarn left for another project to use with the other categories.

The sweater I cast on for was Midori Hirose’s Ranunculus, an oversized top with a patterned yoke. The thing with this pattern is that it is designed for a range of yarn weights and has instructions for different amounts of oversizedness (yes, it’s a word). In my book this is perfect for handspun yarn. The instructions are very clear and there are links to a range of techniques that are used in the pattern.
The laced and patterned yoke is very playful – while it seems like just random holes to pick up new stitches from, I realize this pattern was designed by someone extremely skilled in their craft. This sweater is such a joy to knit! I am already planning for another one, in linen for the summer, perhaps with a wider neckline and more width in the torso. It would result in the loveliest drape. I just need to spin the yarn first.
Happy spinning!
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What a beautiful sweater. I love the idea of using different parts of the fleece, it make SO much sense and I am sure past generations have done exactly this.
What size needles are you using?
Thank you! These are 6 mm needles.